Chapter 9 - STALAG XVIIB


After three or four days, getting hungrier and hungrier all the time, we walked from Dulag Luft to the rail yards in Frankfurt, probably a distance of three or four miles. The yards were a mess of burned-out and bomb-damaged passenger and freight cars. We boarded a train of four-wheel Reichbahn box cars. These were the same box cars so often seen in the films taking Jewish people to the concentration camps. I don’t know how many men to a car but there was not enough room to lie down. We could only stand or sit. We traveled for three days and two nights with very little food given to us. We tried to sleep on the straw but it was nearly impossible because it was so crowded. We were let off the train once during the trip when it stopped in the country for a few minutes.


We arrived in Krems, Austria about forty miles west of Vienna on the Danube River. We walked up the hill north of the village and turned east along the south side of Stalag 17B. It was enormous. I don’t know how many barracks there were for the allied prisoners who were separated from the Americans. The American part of the camp on the east side had twenty barracks separated into five compounds. We could not see the town of Krems or the Danube River because the terrain to the south sloped upward toward the bluffs overlooking the river. To the north and east we could see the flat, rolling terrain for miles and down the river valley toward Vienna. To the east outside the fence a few hundred feet away was a wooded area used as a cemetery for the camp. We became used to the daily sight of seeing dead Soviet prisoners carried unceremoniously to the cemetery.

STALAG 17B


We were photographed and stripped of all our clothing supposedly for fumigation. Our heads were shaved and we entered a large shower room. Too late I realized where we were! Was water really going to come out of those shower heads in the ceiling or a deadly gas! I knew about the gassing of the Jews and I experienced the helpless fear so many others had in similar situations with fatal results. How did I ever allow myself to be in such a situation! Relief! Water showered down upon us!


After the shower, while waiting for our clothes to come out of the disinfectant, was the humorous situation of being in a room with dozens of totally nude males, all of them with shaved heads. It was impossible to recognize a friend unless you looked him squarely in the face. We quickly found how important hair color and style were for recognition. We had a hell of a time trying to find our friends.


There was a welcoming party given by the old timers who shared their skimpy food supplies with us. It primarily was a small piece of brown bread spread with a syrupy orange juice concentrate from the Red Cross food parcels. For a few days we bunked with these guys until the new compound of four barracks was ready and then we moved. My new permanent barracks was 31B in the new compound adjacent to the foreign prisoner compounds. The members of our crew there were Joe Metz, Bruce Hall, Chester Szymanski and myself. The radio operator, Joe Hamel, was in the other half of the barracks, 31A for some unknown reason.
 
[ This picture added, sketch of Stalag XVIIB, There is an arrow pointing to Dad's barracks.]




Stalag 17B held 25,600 British, French, Russian and Serbs prisoners of war. There was a smattering of very oriental-looking prisoners who may have been Mongols. 4,200 American non-commissioned officer airmen were held captive separate from the other nationalities. With six NCO’s per aircraft this represented 700 heavy bombers shot down over Germany and the occupied countries. Since it was unlikely that all six enlisted crew survived, the true number was probably more than 700. A guarded gate and double barbed-wire fences about twelve feet high spaced six feet apart separated the Americans from the other nationalities. A warning area was defined by a single strand of white painted barbed-wire about twenty feet from the main fence. This warning area was on both sides of the barrier between the Americans and the Russians. It was also on the interior side of the fences outlining the outer limits of the camp. The irony of all of this is that barbed-wire was invented by Americans for the ranchers of the American west. To enter the warning area was to be shot without warning. At each corner of the outer fence and at intervals along the fence were towers with armed guards and searchlights. The lights were used intermittently throughout the night.
 

Our new compound was adjacent to the Russian POWs. We frequently traded with them over the warning wires and double fences. At the intersection of the fences separating the two camps with the perimeter fences a guard tower was located in clear view of our trading activity. The Russians apparently had access to local farms. They would throw onions over the whole width of the fence structure (about 45 feet) and we would throw a pack of cigarettes. Cigarette packs are much lighter than onions and it was difficult to throw them that distance. Occasionally, a pack would land in the Russian warning wire area. The intended recipient would carefully watch the guard in the tower until he turned away and then run in and grab the cigarettes. More often than not, the guard would turn, shoot, and kill the Russian. If an onion landed in the American warning area, the guard would cover his eyes while we recovered the onion.


As NCO’s we were not required to work according to the Geneva Convention on treatment of prisoners of war. This was a disadvantage because we had no access to barter with farmers for food. This was not the only American prisoner of war camp run by the Germans. For rosters of the American prisoners of war confined to Stalag 17B see: “The Chronicle of Stalag XVIIB.”


The barracks were one story covered with tar paper. Each half held about 150 men. In the center, between the two living areas, was a wash room with metal troughs and water supplied by high mounted faucets. Water was on for only a short time during the day. There was no hot water. We could only bath with cold water which had the happy circumstance that after an ice-cold shower, we felt warm in the unheated barracks. We only took showers when we couldn’t stand our own smell. Each half of the barracks had a large tile covered stove near the middle for cooking and heating. With two small buckets of coal each day, there was never enough heat. Our body heat was the primary source for keeping the barracks above freezing.


The daily life was routine with hunger the constant companion. A morning roll call by the Germans: “Apel, Apel. Raus, Raus.” Outside in the compound area we formed a “U” shaped formation by barracks. We were counted by the Luftwaffe warrant officers who reported to the German officer and his staff standing in the center with the American compound chief. One morning we decided not to get out of bed for roll call. The German took his pistol and pointed it in the face of Schmidt, our barracks chief, and told him to get us out of the barracks, now! We did. Later, when someone asked Smitty how big was that pistol pointed at him, Smitty replied “about this big” making a sign with his hands of a circle about sixteen inches in diameter. It no doubt looked that big to him.


I had always been curious about this country that started World War I. I hoped to visit it someday. I never dreamed I would actually be in Germany while it was at war. Standing in the roll call formation twice each day, I could hardly believe I was in Germany, looking at it’s military men in uniform while the country was at war. This was more than I bargained for.


Regularly, during the winter, a snow ball barrage began between the old and new compounds. The sky was black with snow balls. With no signal, the barrage of snow balls turned and descended enmass on the German officers waiting for the roll call report. Again, with no signal, the barrage returned to the earlier targets.


After roll call, we were provided one cup of hot water for breakfast. We could either shave with it or make a very weak (to make it last longer) cup of instant coffee. Just enough coffee to cover about a half inch of the tip of our spoon. We were allowed one bowl, a fragile spoon (designed to break easily to prevent digging escape tunnels) and two blankets. I had one American GI blanket and the other was a piece of drapery. The mattresses, such as they were, were burlap bags sparsely filled with shaved wood chips which easily packed down and became as hard as the wood slats supporting them. Some of us modified our beds by removing the slats and wood base and suspending the mattresses like a hammock. This was much more comfortable except that I couldn’t sleep on my stomach.


In mid-morning a slice of brown bread (we believed was made largely of sawdust) was distributed. At first it was approximately three inches thick. As the war progressed, it was reduced to about a half inch per person. On rare occasions, a very smelly cheese or some kind of indifferent jam was distributed. The cheese was so odiferous it was clear why God placed noses over mouths. Once, at Christmas time, we were issued a one inch piece of blood sausage. One guy found a horse’s tooth in his piece which led to the speculation that the Germans must have very large grinders which would accommodate a whole horse.


Horse play was a way to relieve the boredom and anxiety and uncertainties of captivity. Irving Wallace was the victim of a typical practical joke. While he was away from his bunk during the day, we rigged a piece of string from a nail over his pillow with a knot placed so that the string could be lowered in the dark over his face without touching him. On the string, we fastened a piece of that very smelly cheese before lights out. After lights out, Joe Metz lowered the cheese to the knot. Irv, in the dark, said: “What the hell is that smell? Dam you guys, you put that dam stuff all over my pillow.” Finally, he got up, struck a match and searched his bedding area for the source of the stink. Not spotting the cheese he laid down again and soon the abominable smell returned. After a few more incidents, Wally became frantic, cursing us all in the dark. We just could not contain our laughter.


There was no mess hall. Only a kitchen where the food was prepared under German supervision and brought to each barracks in a wooden half barrel supported by a wood rod and carried by two American helpers. The ration was one bowl of de-hydrated soup or five small, frequently rotten, boiled potatoes. If one menu was served at noon, the other was served for supper. The only variation was to alternate between the two menus. Barley soup was our favorite but it was not served very often. Occasionally, the de-hydrated soup contained insects that had been inside the pea-like beans. As long as they were dead, we ate ‘em. It was all protein.


I need to emphasize the importance of the Red Cross food parcels. Without them, we would have been in serious starvation difficulty. They were supposed to be distributed one parcel per man per week. Instead, we received one parcel for two men at irregular intervals. For one or two weeks we would receive the parcels and then none for several weeks. As the Germans issued the parcels, they punched holes in the cans with a bayonet so the contents could not be stored for escape attempts. We tried to seal the holes with margarine. The parcels contained a can of powdered milk (Klim), a can of Spam, a can of concentrated orange juice or a small can of peanut butter, a can of instant coffee, a box of sugar cubes, a chocolate bar, three packs of cigarettes, a block of Velveeta cheese and a small box of raisins or dried prunes and a can of margarine. The chocolate bar was a “D” bar consisting of six squares of hard chocolate guaranteed not to melt in the tropics. It was very tasty and it was used as a medium of exchange. Everything of value was measured by how many squares of a “D” bar it might be worth. The cheese was usually spoiled by the time we received it. The “Elgin” margarine was so bad that we stuck pieces of clothes line into it and used it for lamps. I believe it was more suitable to grease covered wagon axles than as an edible. The Red Cross was the difference between starving to death and being continually hungry. I will forever be grateful to the Red Cross for those parcels.


The Salvation Army was not so perceptive. In the spring of 1945 we received a limited number of very nice hinged wooden boxes with latches. These contained athletic shoes, shorts, undershirts and some tennis balls. They were issued one to five men or some such ridiculous plan when is was clear from the contents they were designed for one man. We also received a bunch of hockey sticks, but no ice skates. We promptly broke up the hockey sticks for fuel. I can’t imagine why anyone would believe we were in any shape or in a place where those items would be of any practical use. Even if we had received ice skates, there was no place to use such equipment and we were far too starved to waste our energy on needless physical exercise. Hunger was our constant companion. Food was the continual subject of conversation.


The talent of all kinds available from the American POW’s never ceased to amaze me. There were home-made clandestine crystal radios. From these we picked up the BBC news broadcasts. Each day, a news-reader would go from barrack to barrack. After posting our security guards, we learned how the war was progressing. In this way, we were very much up to date. It was a source of entertainment, however, to deliberately circulate some reasonable rumor and see how long and what form it would take to return to its originator. No matter what language might be required, there seemed to be someone who had grown up with it and spoke it fluently.

To provide a source of hot water, some of the group in the barracks chief’s corner of our barracks developed a very dangerous scheme. The 250 volt lighting wires in the ceiling were connected to two electrodes made from tin cans. These were very carefully inserted in to a hand-made metal bucket of water. The water was boiling in a matter of seconds. The electric meter outside the barracks almost spun itself off the wall. Fortunately, there were no accidents.


Some were so clever that two or three gallon water-tight buckets were made from tin cans. The seams were carefully folded, hammered and joined with solder salvaged from the seals of the corned beef tins from food parcels. All kinds of mechanical contraptions to grind the “D” bar chocolate squares, or hand-cranked blowers to facilitate coffee brewing fires were hand made. We speculated that if we spent the time constructing a small section of an aircraft tail assembly from tin cans, the Germans would have torn the place apart looking for the rest of the airplane. It was a constant psychological battle between the brains, wit and skills of the Americans and the Germans who had the guns.


Our main recreation and exercise was to walk endlessly around the compound usually with a friend talking about what we were going to do after the war, or about our lives before the war. Never did we discuss how we were shot down. I believe for all of us it was just too painful and too recent to discuss. A favorite taunt to any pretentious conversation was to ask the speaker to tell us how he was shot down. That quickly broke the ego of the speaker. One of our mates (Donald Price) did have the unusual and sad story of how he became a prisoner of war. He and his crew were in B-24’s from Italy on their first mission. They were in a mid-air collision over Yugoslavia and both crews bailed out. They never saw flak or never saw fighters. We always had a good laugh about his misfortune.


A small library was stocked with some books from an organized student group in Switzerland. I was able to read most of Eugene O’Neil’s plays, the Autobiography of Benvenuto Cellini and to read and enjoy the poems of Robert Service. I memorized the “Cremation of Sam Magee.” Reading was a way to escape from prison camp. While my mind was occupied with whatever I was reading, I was free! Putting down a book brought me quickly back to stark reality. Sometimes it was hard to believe I was really a prisoner of war. Somehow, I should wake up and this terrible nightmare would be over. And yet, it was real. I was here and I was a POW. It could not be denied.


Occasionally, the Cardboard Theater POW actors would put on a play. One of the guys was pretty good at dressing as a woman. He got a lot of whistles and cat calls. On rare occasions, we might see an American movie. It made me homesick to see that Warner Brothers WB shield at the beginning of a film. I did not realize until then how much such symbols impact our subconscious. One German musical film I liked was titled: “Rund Um Die Liebe”. Some of the music I can recall to this day. I regret not tracking it down in later years.


The bunks were wooden structures designed to hold twelve men on three decks, four men to a deck. Fortunately we only had eight assigned to a bunk so that we could lower the center deck to a convenient height and not use the bottom deck at all. As the war went on, firewood to heat water became increasingly scarce. We were forbidden to burn wood but we searched under the barracks for scraps left after construction. When that was gone we began to structurally analyze the barracks and bunks for unessential structural members. Over time, we removed every piece of wood not absolutely necessary from the internal roof beams. We nailed the bunks to the barracks wall so they wouldn’t collapse. During the winter of 1944-45 it was so cold that one night, in a snow storm, to the dismay of the Germans, all of the wooden fence posts of the entire fence between the American compounds disappeared except for the wire. When we were evacuated from Stalag 17 in the spring of 1945, all the barracks roofs had noticeable sags in them.


At first we were allowed to use the outside latrines at night provided we did not enter the open compound area. Later, the Germans prohibited us from leaving the barracks at night so we had to use the small latrines at the end of the barracks by the entry door. This made it very bad for those who bunked near it.


Air raids occurred frequently. To this day, the off-key double whine of an air raid siren is a disturbing sound to me. During the day, the 15th Air Force heavies would usually approach from the northwest following the Danube to Vienna. We could see them make their turn to the south after dropping their bombs and we could see the flak over the target. I saw one bomber go down in flames near Vienna. I felt sorry for those men who were dying at that moment and their families who would soon receive a missing-in-action telegram. At that moment, their relatives did not know. One overcast day, drop tanks came through the clouds. They must have been dropped from P-38s or P-51s.
 

One beautiful summer morning about 10 o’clock there was an almost inaudible rumble. It was of such a low frequency that I couldn’t tell if it was in the air or from the ground. Nothing was visible in the clear blue sky. To the south was a faint layer of cloud just on the horizon. Shortly, I realized that was not a cloud. It was vapor trails! The whole 15th Air Force was on its way north. It took an hour for formation after formation to arrive almost overhead. Bomb group after bomb group streamed through the sky. There was no flak and no Luftwaffe fighters as the bomber stream continued north. The American air force ruled the skies over us. It was an impressive sight. The Germans guarding us had to be demoralized by the overwhelming power displayed to them. We were ecstatic over the sight.


One day, about noon, from the northwest, two groups of B-24s approached flying somewhat lower than normal, probably below 20,000 feet. I was walking back to my barracks from the library. I thought I saw something come out of the aircraft. I began to walk a little faster. In a few seconds, there was no doubt. The 500 pound bombs were coming down. I ran, we all ran to the zig zag trenches near the barracks used for air raid shelters. The bombs rained down on Krems. We could not see the town, but the noise of their descent was terrifying. Coming down, they did not whistle as in the movies. The sound was exactly like a freight train moving at very high speed and not too far away. None of that big sounding rich “boom” in the movies. The explosions were as deafening as the crack of rifle fired by your ear. Fortunately, none of the bombs fell on the camp. Later that day, the Germans asked for cardboard from our Red Cross packages to patch windows in Krems. We gave it to them.


On another nice summer morning about 10 o’clock, P-38’s appeared over head. One formation stayed high for cover. The other began strafing runs from east to west. We could clearly see them as they dove down in trail on the rail yards at Krems. The .50 caliber machine guns sounded like high pressure steam from a locomotive safety valve. It was more of a roar than the sound of machine guns. After each P-38 completed the run one after the other, they turned clockwise and roared over our camp at a very low altitude probably not more than 500 to 1,000 feet. We were all standing on the roofs of the barracks cheering wildly. If only I could have made that short jump to one of those P-38s I could be on my way home. Sadly, only a few feet separated me from escape.


The night raids of the Royal Air Force were spectacular. Shortly after the air raid sirens sounded, we heard aircraft over head. To the east, a shower of the RAF multi-colored Christmas tree flares hung in the sky marking the target. I was standing by one of our trenches with a fellow named Graham from Georgia. I wagered him that if anything happened I could beat him to the ground. Shortly, as aircraft passed overhead, there was the sound of machine guns quickly followed by a streak of 20mm bursts through the night sky. I fell to the ground...on top of Graham. To the northeast a few miles away was a peculiar shower of sparks on the ground. Shortly, we heard a sound like a truck load of metal pie plates hitting the ground. I believe what we saw and heard was the night crash of an aircraft. Whose it was, we never learned.


One of the very frightening events was to see the Luftwaffe fighters, Me-109s or FW-190s occasionally buzz the camp. A Luftwaffe airfield was located near Tulln not too far to the east of us. The FW 190s sounded like tractor engines. The Me-109s sounded more like our P-51s. Those sinister black crosses struck fear deep in my heart. My every instinct was to do something, anything, throw stones, to get them out of here. It was a cheerful sight one day during an air raid to see a Heinkel 111k struggling on one engine at low altitude headed northwest. An Me-109 appeared in the southeast in a dive. We never saw him pull out. The pilot was probably dead or had bailed out from a high altitude combat out of our sight. On another sunny afternoon, a German fighter pulled out of a dive too low and scattered his flaming junk just outside of our east fence. I ran into the barracks to tell the guys a fighter just crashed out side our fence. I was interrupting a card game. The reply, without interrupting the game or looking up, was: “(expletive) his luck.” 
 

On the sunny morning of D-Day, June 6, a rumor spread rapidly the long awaited invasion had begun. About 10 o’clock a dozen Luftwaffe Me-109s and FW-190s were seen flying west at low altitude. This was very unusual because American bombers did not usually appear in the area until noon. We had never seen German fighters at that time of day headed in that direction. The direction and number of them lent credibility to the invasion rumor. By early afternoon, our clandestine radio confirmed the invasion had begun! We were overjoyed! The war will be over by fall and we will be going home!


During that summer, we were given a taste of how the Gestapo operated. It seems an American prisoner was temporarily held at 17B while enroute to some other destination. He was able to escape and hide in our camp. One morning we were instructed to take all of our belongings which consisted of a bowl, a spoon and two blankets outside for a special roll call. We were held outside all day while the Gestapo and their dogs searched the barracks for the missing man. Some of our guys spread as much pepper around as the could to confuse the dogs. We were passed between two Gestapo men for a picture and personal check. We had to take off our shirts. If we carried our personal effects too high and covered our bare chests, the Gestapo had us lower our belongings. They were obviously looking for some kind of scar or tattoo.
 

This procedure was repeated the next day. At one point while exiting the barracks, a German guard carrying his rifle over his shoulder, barrel up, passed a window. Unknown to the soldier, a POW quickly placed a dandelion in his barrel. Unfortunately for the soldier, he had the bad luck to pass a German officer who spotted the bloom in the barrel. We didn’t have to understand German to know what the officer was saying to the startled soldier who stood at rigid attention during his severe reprimand.



In December, 1944 the Germans launched their offensive known as the Battle of the Bulge against the Americans. Our morale sank to rock bottom. Maybe we will never beat these people. We were hungry. Our food was all but gone. We talked of the wonderful dinners being served at home. Our morale sunk lower and lower as the war dragged on through the winter. We began to doubt the war would ever end. The popular dismal saying at the time was: “Out the gate in ‘48”.i
 

i I re-visited the site of Stalag 17B in 1956. If anyone had told me in 1944 that I would return as a tourist twelve years later, I would have said he was out of his mind. We drove up the hill out of Krems to the plain behind the bluff. I instinctively turned right into a farm lane. Wheat fields were on each side. Most of the terrain was under cultivation. I looked around at the features on the horizon. This was the location. We were standing where Stalag 17B had been. All of the barracks were gone. There was not a single building in sight. The wooded area east of the camp which contained the cemetery was still there. Looking around the farm lane turned out to be the main street of our part of the camp. In concrete ditches on each side was the evidence of our times, a GI belt buckle and tin cans from our food parcels. The only evidence of the barracks were the shallow mounds of earth under them outlining their location. Pieces of barbed wire lay scattered around. A three foot high masonry corner of a building was the only structural evidence. It may have been the corner of the kitchen. Every single structure, all of the fences, all of the guard towers, all of the barracks, every building, everything was gone. The site is now the location of a small airport.